OKTOBER MI 49505 SL1-B Homebrewer Can Seamer User Manual


OKTOBER MI 49505 SL1-B Homebrewer Can Seamer User Manual



  • Please read and fully understand these instructions before use. Failure to do so may result in serious injury.
  • Since canning is likely to create a wet environment, make sure the flooring and footwear worn around the seamer are non-slip.
  • Pay attention to things like loose clothing, long hair, etc. The drill chuck, can, upper chuck and lower adapter will be spinning and may cause injury if anything gets wrapped around them.
  • Never reach into the area around the upper chuck and rollers while operating. The rollers can pinch or draw in fingers and objects and cause injury.
  • Corded drills should be plugged into a GFCI outlet.
  • Any use other than what is stated in this manual is forbidden.
  • Do not use this machine out of its operating use. -Do not modify this system.
  • Do not discard these instructions.
  • Do not use it if the machine is damaged.
  • Use only lubricants recommended by Oktober Can Seamers.
  • Appropriate caution should be taken to minimize the possibility of repetitive motion hazards.
  • Use only accessories or consumables recommended by Oktober Can Seamers.
  • This machine is not intended for use in a potentially explosive atmosphere. –
  • The use of PPE equipment is recommended.




The BenchMK Oktober Can Seamer is designed to seam aluminum beverage cans with size “202” ends. The model comes equipped with adapters for either 12oz and 16oz cans, or 330ml and 500ml cans. Other can-size adapters are also available for purchase, including sleek can adapters. The standard upper chuck end profile supplied is B64. Options for CDL and SuperEnd end profiles are also available (see website for more details on end profiles).


Check out the how-to videos on our website! After removing the seamer and components from the box, you will need to assemble the base to the frame using the supplied Allen wrenches. Alternatively, the frame can be permanently mounted to a tabletop with or without the base by removing the adhesive rubber feet and fastening it through the mounting holes.


Locate your seamer on a flat, level tabletop or bar-height surface. Make sure there is enough room around the seamer to move around it easily. Attach the operation lever by securely threading it into the hole located on the Pivot Head. If the handle’s threads loosen during operation they can bend or break over time.

You will need to supply a handheld power drill (or driver) with a minimum 3/8in chuck and attach it to the hexagonal Drill Drive Shaft at the top of the seamer. The RPM may vary, but it is suggested to use a minimum of 300 rpm, and a maximum of 1000RPM. Slower speeds may require the operation lever to be rotated more slowly while seaming to ensure a proper seal.

Typically, it is suggested that the can make a minimum of 3 full rotations while the seaming roller is fed into the lip of the can. Make sure to fully lock the drill’s chuck before operation. If the drill has a drive clutch, set it to the locked position. Set the drill to “forward” rotation (the direction to tighten a standard screw). The can should spin “clockwise” when looking from above. The upper chuck can become loose and detach if rotated in the opposite direction.


Check out the how-to videos on our website! Your seamer arrives factory calibrated so there is typically no adjustment necessary to any of the seaming components. If you do have an issue, check the troubleshooting list at the end of this manual. There are a few things that may need to be adjusted due to rough shipping issues, etc.

Before you begin seaming a can, first rotate the operation lever from position 0 to the hard-stops at position 1 and position 2 to become familiar with the feel and locations of where they contact the infeed adjusters. Helpful tip: The can-guide (transparent flat component on back wall of seamer) is designed to hold the can upright and in the correct position to close the splash guard door. Set the can onto the lower adapter and lean it back against the guide. Pull your hand out of the machine and then close the splash guard door.

Before you begin seaming a can, first rotate the operation lever from position 0 to the hard-stops at position 1 and position 2 to become familiar with the feel and locations of where they contact the infeed adjusters. Helpful tip: The can-guide (transparent flat component on back wall of seamer) is designed to hold the can upright and in the correct position to close the splash guard door. Set the can onto the lower adapter and lean it back against the guide. Pull your hand out of the machine and then close the splash guard door.


Make sure the correct adapter is in place for the can size you plan to use. Adapters generally snap onto the top of the base adapter like a “LEGO®” piece.

  1. Rotate the operation lever to position 0.
  2. Open the splash guard door by pulling the splash guard handle out and downward.
  3. Set a filled can (and end) onto the lower adapter and lean the can back into the seamer. The can should rest against the can-guide. The can should stay upright on its own once placed against the can-guide.
  4. Close the splash guard door. It should feel a bit heavy as it clamps the can and will lock in-place with a solid feeling. *Note closing the splash guard will not feel the same without a can loaded into the seamer.
  5. Hold the drill in your left hand and use your thumb to turn the drill “on.” Check that the can spins clockwise when looking from above.
  6. Rotate the operation lever toward position 1 until the roller contacts the edge of the can end.
  7. Once the roller makes contact, slowly continue to rotate the lever until it contacts the hard-stop. It should take about 2 seconds for the roller to rotate between initial contact and the hard-stop. Slower drill speeds may require more time to reach the stop.
  8. Once the lever has reached the hard-stop, hold for 1 second, then return the lever to position 0.
  9. Repeat the same process for position 2.
  10. Turn “off” the drill.
  11. Once the can has stopped rotating, open the splash guard door and remove the can.

Every-Use Maintenance

  • Wipe down the seamer with warm water and a rag to keep it clean of sticky residue. You can add a small amount of sanitizer or dish soap, but it is NOT recommended to use other cleaners. Warm water is usually all that is needed to break up sticky residues. Make sure to dry everything off thoroughly.
  • The Splash Guard can be cleaned more easily by removing the quick-release pin located between the splash guard handle and base lever.

Periodic Maintenance

Pull the plastic lower adapter off the base shaft bearing and use a rag and warm water to wipe down the bearing, washers and wave spring (see diagram above). Dry them off and add a dab of grease into the bearing and rub some onto the spring and washer(s). Replace them in the same order they were removed. Remove the base shaft by pulling out the upper quick-release pin. The shaft can then be pulled upward and out of the machine.

Wipe down the shaft and the bore that the shaft rides in with water and a rag. Dry them off and rub a dab of grease onto the shaft. If this isn’t done regularly, the shaft will eventually become sticky and the splash guard handle will become difficult to close. -After every 500 cans, clean and grease each operation roller by removing the locking nuts and pulling the rollers down and off the axles. Apply a small dot of grease to the axle and spin the roller by hand as you replace it to spread the grease evenly. Tighten the locking nut enough to limit the vertical motion of the roller, but still allow it to spin freely. *Note: overtightening the locking nut will stop the roller from spinning.

Seam Inspection

Check out our how-to videos on the website! Our method of seam inspection requires a “tear-down tool,” some nippers or wire cutters, and a set of .001in calipers. These tools are available on the Oktober website. When measuring the seam thickness, the calipers should be parallel to the inside taper of the can (as shown below), rather than parallel to the straight sides of the can. Make sure to not squeeze the calipers too tightly when measuring. Use the lightest pressure possible to allow the calipers to close against the seam. If too much pressure is used, the seam will measure smaller than reality.


  1. Complete the first operation ONLY, remove the can from the seamer, and measure the first operation seam thickness as shown. First Operation Seam Thickness: 202 ends .074in – .078in
  2. Place the can back into the seamer and run the second operation. Remove the can and measure the final seam thickness as shown. Second Operation Seam Thickness: 202 ends .043in – .046in
  3. Using a tear-down tool, cut the top of the can off.
  4. Using nippers or wire cutters, cut a notch through the entire remaining seam.
  5. Pull the seam out of the can body as shown. Start from the notch that you cut with the nippers.
  6. Measure the “cover hook length” in at least 3 places around the inside lip of the removed seam. Cover Hook Length: 202 ends .053in – .065in
  7. Measure the “body hook length” in at least 3 positions around the perimeter of the can. Body Hook Length: 202 ends .055in – .075in


If any of the measurements from the seam inspection aren’t within the specifications, it may be time to adjust the seamer’s calibration.

Infeed Calibration
If the first or second operation seam thickness is incorrect, you can adjust them by adjusting the infeed adjuster screws (see diagram). The nut requires a 3/8in wrench and the screw requires a 5/32in Allen key. To decrease the operation seam thickness, loosen the adjuster screw nut, and turn the screw counterclockwise.

If the seam is too small turn the screw clockwise. Each rotation adjusts the thickness approximately .001in. After adjusting the screw, run the operation again (on a new can if the thickness was too small) and measure the new seam thickness. Continue to adjust, test, and re-measure until the seam thickness is within the specification.

Vertical roller position


The gap between the roller and the top surface of the upper chuck needs to be set to a minimum (see diagram above). Basically, the gap should be as small as possible, while allowing free rotation of the roller when it is engaged over the chuck (operation handle is against the hard stop). To set the gap, first loosen the vertical position locking screw.

The roller assembly should now be free to move up and down. Position the roller above the chuck (as shown) by rotating the operation lever to the hard-stop position. Allow the roller to rest on the chuck and re-tighten the vertical position locking screw. With the roller still located on top of the chuck, rotate it to make sure it doesn’t get difficult to spin. If it feels tight, loosen the locking screw, and retighten it slowly while rotating the roller. Repeat, if necessary, until the roller spins freely.

Base Force Adjustment

The clamping force between the lower adapter and the upper chuck is critical to a good seam. In particular, the base force has a significant effect on the seam’s body hook (more base force typically will create a larger body hook). In general, the base force is set to just less than the maximum that the can will take before it collapses. If your cans are denting and/or collapsing when closing the splash guard door then it is possible that the base force is too high.

cans that are empty are much more likely to crush than a full can. Before adjusting the base force, make sure the wave spring and washers are located correctly inside the lower adapter (see seamer diagram). The base force is set using washers under the lower adapter. Adding washers increases the base force, and removing them decreases the base force. A seam inspection is required to verify that the base force is set properly. Typically if the body hook is sufficient, so is the base force.


Can does not spin when drill is turned on
Check to make sure the drill’s chuck is fastened properly to the hex drive shaft. If the drill has a drive clutch, set it to the locked position. Some upper seaming chucks are a two piece design that requires the center bolt to be tight. If the bolt is loose the chuck can spin freely from the drive shaft. Use a 5/16in wrench on the hex shaft (drill removed) and a 3/16in Allen wrench on the center bolt and tighten by hand.


Seaming problems that can occur when you first receive your seamer
Seamers should arrive calibrated and ready to use. If you are having trouble with seams initially: First make sure you are pushing the operation lever forward toward position 1 first. Then toward position 2. Re-read the seaming instructions to make sure the procedure is followed correctly.

Check to ensure that the wave spring and washer are located properly under the lower adapter (see MODEL 7 SEAMER DIAGRAM). The base force (clamping pressure) will not be correct without the spring in place. Make sure you have the correct type of end for the upper chuck. There are several can end “profiles” available, and they are not compatible with each other. The B64 profile comes standard on Oktober seamers, but others are available when you place your seamer order. They can also be swapped out easily.




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